Hacking the Ultimate Shift Top

I don't know about you, but I always struggle to find comfortable things to wear in the heat. I'm from Scotland, and it was pretty rare to need anything lighter than my default breton top when I lived there.

In Dorset, on the other hand, there are a good few weeks of the year where that's too warm. I'd go for a t-shirt which could still feel a bit heavy, but was at least more hard-wearing and comfortable than the nasty polyester tops I'd bought before I started paying attention to fabrics.

As this is my first summer of sewing, I've spent a lot of time looking at suitable patterns and admiring everyone's makes on Instagram. I finally decided that the ultimate summer top for me would be something along the lines of a Grainline Scout tee. It might just be my familial frugality, but I'm already a little ashamed by how many patterns I have (around 15-20, mostly from charity shops and magazines), so despite the Scout tee being a well-loved pattern, I decided to draft one based on a pattern I already own.

I don't think Sew Over It's Ultimate Shift Dress/Top needs any real introduction - it's a lovely simple make (which I've nonetheless managed to make a pig's ear out of more than once) with a few different sleeve length options.

I cut around the neck and armholes, but continued the armholes out beyond the pattern by about an extra 10mm each side for a looser fit. At this point I shifted the pattern up the fabric so I could skip the dart, then continued cutting. I did the same on the back, adding 10mm to each side, and on the sleeves, too, so everything would match up.

One of the things I really dislike about my original Ultimate shift top is the hook and eye fastening, so I decided to widen the neck. To do this I removed the pattern piece and measured an inch along the shoulder seams on the front and back pieces, then I just cut the fabric freehand from there to the fold. At this point I also cut the neck facings using my pieces as a template.

From there the construction was the same as the shift top itself, minus the darts. I added french seams along the shoulders and user an overlocker-like stitch down the side seams. I finished the cuffs by folding and pressing twice before sewing the side seams. I kept it long until try-on stage and then took up the hem by a few inches. Loose-fitting tops normally make me feel quite frumpy and scruffy, but I think the length of this makes it a bit more interesting.

I promise I don't feel quite as smug as I look.

And here it is! The fabric is viscose from Fabric Land that I think cost £3.99/m a few months back. It's quite shifty but lovely and light, and I think it even appeared on the cover of the first ever issue of Suzy magazine!

I put this top on as soon as it was finished and wore it round the house for the rest of the day with a pair of old Gap shorts. This is a good few inches shorter than any of my other tops, so I'm not used to my waistband being seen - I love the length, but definitely need to make or buy a nice belt now!